January 5-11
Tomoka State Park
Ormond Beach, Florida

We drove about 60 miles south from St. Augustine, following Hwy A1A for most of the way, to see the beachfront homes and the inter coastal waterway, to get to Ormond Beach, which is just north of Daytona. It wasn't originally on our itinerary, but back in St. Augustine we had a problem with the RV--the fridge warmed up into the 50s for a few days, as it had done back in Albuquerque. After a couple days of food starting to spoil, we called around and found a Georgie Boy dealer who could fix the fridge and the dash a/c (4th time), the back room furnace, and change the oil. That's why we left St. Augustine when we did, to get here for our service. But this has turned out to be a beautiful spot, and we've decided to stay longer than we need to.



We haven't rented the canoes yet, but it looks like a pretty place to paddle around.




Aren't the trees pretty here? Why anyone would spend $60 a night to camp at the sardine-packed seaside private parkinglot they call an RV resort a few miles north of here is beside me.


Back in the 1920s, before this place was a state park, this building was a brothel. Now it's the park ranger's residence. However, the park rangers here do seem particularly happy...


In the early days of the park, this "youth camping area" (that's what the sign says) was the area that the black folks were relegated to. The ranger said that they get old black men who come to the park and prefer to go to this area to fish. Makes me wonder if the "youth camping area" back at Faver Dykes had the same history.



This is a necklace we made with the shells we found at Anastasia beach.


There is a nature trail with lots of signs showing different kinds of trees. Katie really liked running ahead to find the next sign. There were quite a few trees broken by the hurricane, but this was the biggest. Can you imagine trying to blow this one over?

Near the nature trail is a museum/visitor's center, with a lot of art from Fred Marsh:


This is a velvet cape he painted around 1900 for a play (see the tiny black & white picture in the corner?). He did a great job of painting the women on it, and it couldn't have been easy painting on velvet. Also, he was so modern for his time. That was the day of Art Neuveau, but he was painting like Matisse or Picasso. Maybe he met them in Paris, where he studied as a teenager.


He was hired by the Navy to design posters during World War 1.


I really like this model for a mural of Michigan's industry.


Marsh designed this sculpture for the state park we are staying in. Apparently, Marsh lived on the coast nearby here in the 1920s (brothel time) and 1930s (early park time), and wanted to commemmorate the local Native Americans.

This last one of his is his most famous, but she looks like a hood ornament to me. Not feminine like the women on the early cape. Very 1930s stylized.

Well, yesterday (Friday) we dropped the rv off to get it serviced, and spent the day seeing the Daytona Beach area. First we visited the second tallest lighthouse in the US: Ponce De Leon lighthouse (I have no idea what is the tallest, and they weren't telling.) Here we go:




This is looking down from almost the top.

Here are views from the top:

Beached boats, maybe the hurricanes got em.

The coolest thing about this lighthouse is that it's one of the only ones, or maybe the only one (I forget), that still has all its extra buildings still standing. You can see the privy. You can see where the kids slept. You can walk around their garden and you can see the old lenses they used. It is still in use, but with a newfangled lens.

Katie met the lighthouse cat, TC, and she needed look no further. The whole time we were there, all she wanted to do was pet the very old, infirm kitty (who was sort of trying to politely edge away. Eventually we had to break the news to Katie.) Here they are:


Across the street from the lighthouse is a yacht dock, and this neat thing is what they use to move them around. It was probably 30 feet tall, and I got to see it driving around.

After the lighthouse we had lunch and then headed for Daytona Beach, one of the few beaches you can still drive on with a car. I remember when I was growing up, there were legends or stories about folks falling asleep or getting drunk and forgetting about the tide, which does come in enough to strand your vehicle. We didn't stay too long, because there were black clouds piling up and the tide was coming in, but Katie had a great time while we were there. Here's a few pics:




This is my favorite. It's my new desktop wallpaper.

The shop called to say they were done with the RV, everything was fixed except the fridge, which they couldn't figure out because it was of course working. I'd love to have brought it to them when it wasn't working, but of course you have to book these appointments weeks in advance. sheesh.

Today is Saturday, and this morning at the state park there was a guy reinacting what it was like to be a settler in this area in the 1700s, during the Indian Wars. It was really fascinating and I listened for an hour, while Mark and Katie got bored and went for a walk and finally rode his bike back to the RV while I stayed some more. Here are some pictures:


I got to try to create sparks with a steel and a flint (couldn't do it), chew on some sweet cane used to make syrup (tasted like watermellon), and buy some real sugar cane sugar in a cone shape and also some pressed green tea that probably tastes horrible but I had to have it.

Katie made friends with two little boys (age 4 and a half and 7) near us here. Tried playing with them with limited success (they ride bikes very fast compared to her, and like to play cops). She seemed really happy to have them nearby. Hopefully they'll get to play tomorrow too. Gotta go--Mark's game is finally over (it's just after midnight).

We also met a couple of really wonderful women camping near us. Molly was walking her dog Ramble when we first met her, and she showed us some tricks that her very well trained German Shepherd can do. We got to know Molly and her friend Norma a little while we've been here, and they have given us tips on some of their favorite parks to see in the south. It's great to hear real recommendations and not just choose places based on what's nearby. There were so many nice people at Ormond Beach; maybe we met more of them here because we were actually here for so long, and around camp a little more.

Molly and Norma lived in Melbourne Beach, Florida, right on the ocean, and they say that they can see the launches at Cape Canaveral from their doorstep. They were spared by the hurricanes, which they feared would blow their home's roof off. They were so nice to Katie, and we're hoping to take them up on their offer of a visit when we head back towards Jacksonville in a couple weeks.

On our last full day in camp, Katie and I drove out to an old (1700s) sugar plantation near our state park (on Norma & Molly's recommendation). I was impressed that the road out to the plantation has remained the same for 200 years. It's only one lane, but it's so pretty I'm surprised they never paved it:

Below is a picture of the mill ruins. The mill was the largest sugar mill in Florida, until it was burned by the Seminoles in 1836 (they got a tad angry over that whole "white guys moving in and taking over" thing). The ruins were quite pretty, with the jungle trying to creep back in and take over.

I'm kind of a nut about old maps, so here's one of Florida in 1831, showing how much was controlled by the Seminoles during the Seminole Wars.

We left Ormond Beach this morning, bound for Lake Louisa. We had expected to go straight south down the east coast of Florida, but there are no state parks with any room for us in that direction, so instead we had to head southwest, toward Orlando. We are only 20 minutes from The Mouse, and staying in place with a dynamite sunset. Open up Lake Louisa and see more...